Friday 29 April 2011

Lucca

We're now at Relais San Lorenzo in Lucca and already Florence seems soooooooo long ago.  Rome seems like a lifetime ago.  I have tried to add this episode several times without success on the laptop at our place (can't use my own laptop) and so very late last night, I finally redid it for the 4th time and saved it on my memory stick.  As 'luck' would have it, I can't cut and paste.  hmmmmm

On our morning in Florence (even now I can't remember what day it was) we had a hurried - but funny - breakfast and then headed down the road to the Duomo to climb to the top.  It was a good way to work off breakfast , and the panoramic views over the city from the top were amazing.  We spent ages up there - it was hard to break the spell to start the climb down.  Once back on ground level we certainly had a different perspective as we walked down some of the streets , having seen the 'rabbit warren' from above.

Our idea was to head straight to the Ponte Vecchio but as usual there was lots to sidetrack us on the way.  As it turned out, it took us so long that we even ended up having lunch before we reached the bridge!  We arranged for a time and place to meet , since we thought we may end up getting separated on the bridge.  I had decided that this time I was going to treat myself to something, and set off with a couple of items in mind to buy.  As it turned out, I came away empty handed but thankfully Leanne kept up her tradition and came away with an amazing Baltic amber piece.

An hour later and we were at the station ready to catch the train to Lucca - we were even in time to catch the earlier train and the journey was quite picturesque.  Once at Lucca our google earth instructions gave either the walking directions to our new abode or the bus numbers and instructions for those.  We soon discovered that even finding the bus stop was a challenge - even the locals didn't know where that number bus station was - there were no taxis and so we set off to walk.  Leanne had worked out how to manage her luggage but we must have looked quite a sight.  Julie, a Kiwi, came up to ask if we were Antipodean and she showed us the way as she was heading to her hostel, which is around the corner (so to speak).  It turned out she had her own travel business guiding women only tours in various parts of the world and she was in Lucca visiting a friend and also using the time to recce the area for future tour possibilities, so we had an interesting discussion.

Val had nipped out by the time we arrived at Relais San Lorenzo so the lady made us a coffee and we settled down in the 'living area' part.  It was good to see Val again (he wasn't long in arriving back) and then we met Leonie and Peter, the other couple who are also with us on this trip.  They are long standing friends of Val's.  We all met up on the balcony part of their room for nibbles and drinks before heading around the corner for our first dinner.

It seemed to me that Mimo's gastronomic delights in Rome were the perfect training for the meals to come in Tuscany.  Val said that he doesn't want us to leave without sampling the full benefits of Tuscan meals and so he ordered accordingly for everyone.  Unfortunately by this stage my appetite has completely disappeared and the idea of eating was the furthest from my mind.  I've even declined gelatos now for 4 days!  After dinner, the others went for a walk around town and off for a coffee and I retreated back to our room, thinking it was a first that I declined the opportunity for some night photography.

Yesterday morning, we all met for breakfast after which we left for a 'quick walk to the wall' as Val put it.  His worries that we may think he hadn't planned enough for the day soon disappeared as we took a couple of hours to 'wander down to the wall'.  We all relished the opportunity to be out with our cameras, the weather that morning was brilliant and after leaving the wall and heading back through the alleyways and streets towards the centre of town again we all had a ball nipping in and out of many of the interesting shops, even stopping for a coffee (no cake for me).  We then found a wonderful deli and decided we'd each buy something for lunch since they had some interesting breads, and a plethora of cold meats, cheeses, stuffed tomatoes and salads.  The rest of the shop had hanging salamis and hams, more olive oils than I'd seen in one place before and the usual mixture of pastas and relishes.

We all did our own thing for the afternoon and met up by 7pm so we could head out for another dinner.  Our meal last night was in Da Guilio which was a large restaurant that filled up quickly.  It seemed to serve good wholesome food at extremely reasonable prices and it didn't seem like there were many tourists there.  Items on the menu included marinated minced horse meat; roasted brick chicken; cornmeal porridge with meal or tomato sauce; grilled cuttle-fish; tripe; boiled veal head with onions; veal lung in sauce and veal cheek.  It's a tough area for veal survival methinks ...  I played it safe with vegetable soup (chunky and delicious) and then pork ribs with olives.  By the time the main meal arrived, my appetite again had left .  It looked lovely but it was the first time I'd seen pork ribs without bones.  I gave most of it away to the others, but the bit I ate was delicious.    Thankfully there was a long gap between courses because Leonie and I had ordered creme brulee for desert and it was delicious, appetite or not.

Val and I went for a walk after dinner to try some night photography.  Val wanted to try out his tripod and get to know his camera better.  The time flew as it always does.

Today we all set off early this morning in our Fiat hire van and drove out to the countryside.  We had our first stop at Ponte della Madelena which is a foot only bridge built around 1300.  The reflections in the water as we pulled up to stop were perfect, but it seemed that as if on cue, a few ducks saw some people with cameras heading to take photos and they made sure the water was soon full of ripples.  It's amazing how quickly a few ducks going around and around and around and around can stir it all up!  We just had to laugh about it all.  As we were leaving, 2 couples on bikes - yep, BMWs of course (1150s but 2 different models) pulled up and we imagined the ducks having to go around in circles again.

Val next took us to Lucignana, the small village on top of one of the hills where his father came from.  We spent more time there than we should but it was really interesting - he was related to quite a few of the people still living there and we all ended up at his aunt's place.  She is 89 and would pass for 65 and I think was quite chuffed that he bought an extra 4 Aussies to her place.  The views were stunning but then the village is quite isolated, and while the views are stunning the realities of actually living there are not as idyllic as the views suggest.

Our lunch stop was Il Vecchio Mulino at Castel Nuova.  A totally different type of 'restaurant'.  We had an Tuscan version of a ploughman's pub lunch.  The owner is a huge guy, and I mean HUGE.  But you should see his hand made mortadellas - they are 2 metres long, weigh 200kg and are the size of a small car tyre round.  Quite something!  Actually the lunch was delicious, and was accompanied by a couple of bottles of red wine (as most meals here seem to be) but again I just had to watch the others drink most of it.  Then the owner offered G&Ts with blood oranges (instead of limes or lemon) and Leanne and Leonie said they were delicious.  I settled for a coffee.

We had a quick stop in Barga before heading back to Lucca.  The others now have all gone to listen to an operatic student performance in one of the town's churches, and as soon as I finish this I am heading out with my camera and tripod.  There was an amazing downpour this afternoon as we arrived back into Lucca, and so the streets should have glistening cobbles and maybe even some reflections.  It's twilight, and after a tiny dinner - maybe a pizza after the others come back from their opera bit - we may head out again for some night photography.

It's strange for me adding these photos taken in Florence, as it seems so long ago already.  Leanne and I on top of the Duomo and the two below are some of Florence 




One of the piazzas in Florence -Leanne was amazed at the number and size of the statues just seemingly dotted around the town, as well as the age of the buildings, piazzas and some of the 'ruins'.  This piazza has special memories for me and it was great to be there again


No, these were not our breakfast eggs arriving.  They are part of the window display for a chocolate shop!  And no, we didn't buy any to taste  ...  gotta leave that for next time!


Dinner on our fist night here in Lucca


Tomorrow we leave Lucca as this is already our 3rd night here.  I am hoping that our next stop will have easier internet access and I can update the blog from my laptop, so it will be easier to add photos.  This has taken quite a while and I need to be out rather than sitting with this PC!!!!!  It's a busy life being 'on holidays' as Lisa and Betty seem to remind me ....  yes ladies, I know you are happy where you are!

caio for now

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