Tuesday 10 May 2011

Florence and the end of a Chapter

This entry is a tad late.  It's hard to believe how much we crammed into Saturday, and for us it was an incredibly looooooooooong day.

We packed up, had a hurried tiny breakfast and then had a very scenic drive down to Montevarchi.  The weather continues to be wonderful and we're getting very used to clear blue skies and sunny days, so jackets are at the bottom of the backpack.

The train trip back up to Florence was as scenic as you'd expect from this beautiful region of Italy.  Every few seconds, another 'postcard scene' would appear and we seemed to arrive back in Florence incredibly quickly.  We all put our bags into storage at the station and headed down to the Duomo and then off to find a coffee and something to eat, as by this stage our appetites had returned.  It was a bit of a buzz to know our way around, and to think that on a Saturday morning, the start of another weekend, here we were in Florence!!

Leonie and Peter only had a couple of hours here before their train left, and so we made the most of our last hours together.  Leanne and I had most of the day - I'd already bought our train tickets back to Rome and when we last checked them, I noted that the train left Florence at 16:12.  I know this sounds odd, but I knew that European trains run on an extensive network and they usually run on time so I didn't think the departure time was odd. 

Once Leonie and Peter had left and we were back on our own, we were trying not to think of just how long our day was actually going to be.  We had until just after 4pm to wander around Florence, and then we were catching the train to Rome, with a connection out to the airport.  We were then supposed to fly from Rome to Zurich, and then Zurich to Bangkok and after waiting there for a few hours, on to Sydney where we were due to arrive very early on Monday.  So we'd really not get much of a Sunday at all.

We had a running "joke" that we'd get to Rome airport, and instead of catching our flight to Zurich we'd somehow end up getting a flight elsewhere in Europe.  After all, when we'd arrived in Rome we somehow ended up joining a queue which was for a European domestic departure, so we thought we may just end up doing the same again.  That way we'd save the inevitable of flying back that evening.

I thought we could end up with a blog about Florence, and then saying that we flew out of Rome and when we arrived, we made our way to a small hotel I knew of and on Sunday morning we went for a stroll and I took this photo ...


... again.  But not to be - this time.

We had a great time in Florence - really, who wouldn't?  Leanne managed to continue her tradition and helped the Italian economy bubble along.  She ended up with quite a few packages to prove once again how good she really is at packing.  I think she could start a business helping people to pack, whether they are tourists leaving Sydney, or people moving house and wanting "less" boxes to deal with.  Or those just wanting to declutter a tad.  But I digress.

I kept busy by photographing some items that we didn't buy.  Some are understandable, and it would be interesting to know if they are ever purchased, but it is amazing at some of the stock some shops have.







One of the times I was waiting for Leanne, I had the luxury of just watching the world go by.  The streets in Florence are not wide, and footpaths, if they have them, tend to merge with the cobbled streets because usually the streets are just full of people walking.  Sometimes there is a car (private or taxi), or a bus but their progress was awfully slow.  We even thought that it was a pain when there was a car trying to use the road!  I did notice though the number of people using bikes - a great way to get around - so took a selection of those.





So these guys had a busy time.  At first they looked like they were dressed for a formal occasion, but with all the people (plus the European festival that was on that day), and the traffic of all sorts, they would have a busy shift.


and if you owned a car in Florence, the smaller the better!



and then there were some of THE sights you just have to look at, no matter how many times you happen to be in Florence.


and some jobs that probably wouldn't be on the top of everyone's "ideal" list.  This window cleaner was cleaning the outside of the window, and when we looked at the drop if he lost his footing, we assumed he was agile and fit, as well as a good window cleaner.


I was also amazed at the large number of flowers that seemed to be everywhere.  Not just in pots on many window ledges, but there were endless pots of flowers outside shops, or in hanging baskets, and this enormous pot really brightened the scene and would have made this particular cafe quite popular.


With summer coming, it was the time for buskers to get in some practice.  This lady was just completing her make-up but we didn't have the time to see the finished result.


This guy however was amazing.  It looked like his makeup was quite thick, and the end result was quite spectacular.  Standing still for hours on end would have been hard enough, but with all that makeup and heaving clothing it would be hard work, especially in the summer.  So I hope he made enough from all the tourists to be worth it.


This little boy was really cute, taking several attempts to get up the courage to go close enough to put a donation in the busker's box.



Leanne however, managed it quite well!


And of course with all the hard work of walking around Florence, watching Leanne buoy up the economy, photographing some of the things we didn't buy, and realising it would be a few months before we'd be back in Italy, we DID buy a gelato.  We treated ourselves, sitting in the square in front of the Duomo and watched the world drift by while we slowly ate our gelatos.



We arrived back at the station in time to retrieve our luggage, and Leanne to repack a bit, and then headed out to find which platform our Rome train departed from.  I looked up at the departure board and saw a train to Rome, but it wasn't our train number and also a different departure time.  I looked a few times, but really couldn't see it.  So I went up to the information counter, squeezed in to the front of the line, showed our ticket and asked which platform the train departed from.

He looked at the ticket and said that it wasn't valid because the train left a couple of hours ago.  I was gobsmacked.  He was probably used to seeing a variety of reactions to news like that, so he just reissued the ticket and said that the next train to Rome left in a few minutes, so we'd best run!

It took me what felt like a few minutes to locate Leanne, and we both made our way quickly to the platform and the official there checked our new tickets and said that we had seats in carriage 10, which just happened to be at the other end of the train, and we'd best run.  So we did!  I was fortunate, I just had the one backpack and one camera bag, which I could wear on my front.  So I had two spare hands and I just picked up Leanne's big bag, and moved as quickly as I could.  Leanne followed with her other bags.

When we finally got on to the train I told her what had happened.  It turned out that the 'departure' time I was reading on our original tickets was in fact the arrival time in Rome!  Our original tickets were timed to have us arrive at the airport in time for our flight.  And here we were, hours behind and still in Florence.  So there was quite a bit of time when we thought that our "joking" over the past few days and especially today that we'd accidentally miss our flight and have to fly elsewhere in Europe may turn out to be anything but a joke!

Still, we couldn't do anything about it so we settled down to enjoy the views sliding past as the train sped south towards Rome.  Arriving at the outskirts of Rome, and watching the buildings as the train made its way past some familiar landmarks into the Central Termini was surreal.  Again it was wonderful to know that now Rome was not just a famous name, or a dot on a map.  We'd had an absolutely wonderful week there, and thanks to being with Sue & Roger and also meeting and being included with Pat and Mimmo we knew that our time in Rome was indeed special, and we saw a totally different Rome to what most tourists get to see.

We managed to change trains at the Central Termini and keep calm on the way to the airport.  Once at the airport station, we must have been two of the more determined passengers as we made our way to the check in counter.  I have to admit to being somewhat ambivalent - it really wouldn't have been the end of the world if we had missed our flight and its connections but I'm not sure that Leanne would have been as accepting about that option.  As it turned out, we were the last passengers permitted to check in, and the guy at the counter just said he'd give us one word of advice:  'Run!'

We were going OK until we reached the winding queue for the hand luggage checks & x-ray.  By this stage, I was past caring what people thought, and so I just went through saying 'Scusi - missing flight' and was pleasantly surprised that most passengers were happy to move over and let us pass. 

So we ended up making the flight, and its connections.  And our Saturday continued with a relatively short flight to Zurich, a quick change for the long flight to Bangkok, a few hours there and then the final 9 or so hours into Sydney.

So much has happened since I left.  Several lifetimes, amazing experiences, fantastic opportunities.  So while this may be the end of this adventure, it's now time for the next one to start.

Stay tooned!!!!

Friday 6 May 2011

A perfect Friday

I don't think you could ask for a better day, weatherwise.  Glorious sunshine, vivid blue skies - hard to believe it's not even summer yet!

We had another cruisy day with a leisurely breakfast and then we set off for the Castella di Ama, which is a very well known winery.  It is now very well hidden since most of the signposts seem to have disappeared, so we had a very scenic route to the winery.

They do apparently make very nice wine here (we didn't have a taste) but they also have a range of installation art pieces scattered throughout, which made the tour very interesting and different.  Driving back down the hills after the tour, we made a snap decision to have lunch in one of the villages.  We'd had to slow down through this village because the road narrowed to a vehicle width, between houses, and so we spotted a few people sitting at a cafe, and since it was just after 1pm we thought this was as good a place as any to stop for lunch.  The food was extremely tasty, and thankfully quite quick to appear - and equally as quick to disappear off the plates!

We then drove to Montevarchi to buy our train tickets for tomorrow, and this way we could also time the trip so there's (theorteically) no panic tomorrow morning.

The few hours back at the abbey will go quickly - it's a magical place to be staying at.  I'm definitely not looking forward to leaving here but then again, it will be fun to be back in Florence!

At the winery, this is one of the installation art pieces.  Usually you find paintings hanging on a wall.  This time, the wall is a mirror and the "paintings" are gaps so you look through to the real scene beyond.  Quite clever I thought



Patterns and texture


Another of the installation art - there is a long story behind each piece, but with this it is the word "Revolution" backwards, and of course you can make quite a few words out of it.  The 'Lover' at the end though still has the final 'R' backwards


This is the village where we stopped for lunch - nothing like a "sidewalk cafe" as they'd say in the States, except this time its a very literal translation - and wonderful!


I wish diet coke cans were so nice in all countries!


The village - spotless streets.  This is because the women sweep their homes in the mornings, and then sweep outside their front doors.  In this case, 'outside their front doors' is actually the street!

Thursday 5 May 2011

Would you go to a butcher just to buy meat?

We didn't have as early a start as we had planned, mostly because we were all loving it in the apartment.  Not being able to operate some of the kitchen equipment may also have had a bearing, but we did linger over breakfast.

Still, once on the road we drove to Panzano, specifically to visit the butcher.  We'd heard that this butcher was supposed to be "the best butcher in the world" which of course is quite ridiculous.  He has a small shop, but it is the first time any of us have been into a butcher where there's a lady ready to pour you a glass of red wine while you nibble the range of entres they have prepared.  These are laid out quite artistically, and at the end of these is a crammed bookshelf, presumably for customers to borrow. 

We would have felt rude to decline, but we remembered our manners and actually bought some meats for tonight's dinner.

After having what felt like a full morning tea in the butcher shop, we headed to Volpaia for lunch.  We had time to wander around this old village before lunch.  One of the buildings dates from 1127 and it is still used and certainly doesn't look it.  We had a leisurely lunch, enjoying the view and the conversation and then went for another walk around.  It's one of those blissful days, where there is no rush, the sun is out, traffic was good (yep, even the birds are singing).

On the way home we had a stop in Raddia in Chianti for yet another wander and then we headed back to Ceramiche Rampini where I decided to fill up my kilo quota which was enormous fun.

Back at our apartment area, we decided to take some photos to try and show how stressful it can be, being constantly on the go.

The butcher in his shop


and the amazing artistic display where there were a range of nibblies, not to mention quite an interesting ceramic statue at the other end!


a local customer, just buying meat ...


and one just testing the nibblies


In Volpaia, this apartment was for sale - actually, from the road you couldn't see the apartment, so I had a closer look at the notice on the gate


and thought it was rather funny


walking up the road to the abbey, this is the first view of it you get as you round the last bend






In Raddia in Chianti the notice on these chooks was priceless.  It said 'The roosters have had enough of being photographed' which of course made it even funnier to photograph



Stress

I'm going to have to admit that being on the go constantly for a couple of months does have its stresses.  It's not that I don't want to admit to missing my desk at the office, although I do know that it is in more than capable hands and I have 1000% faith that it's not missing me.

It is stressful adapting to completely new environments, firstly in Africa and now in Europe.  Being terribly busy every day without a day just to veg, because while you're away somehow you don't want to "waste" a day.  No two days have been the same and sometimes so much is packed into just one day, it's hard to believe.  Quite some time ago I got to the stage where I actually spent a while working out exactly what day of the week it was, never mind the date or the month.

And as you can see, these stresses do finally show ....



Wednesday 4 May 2011

Italian heaven

We’ve arrived in Italian heaven.  We are now settled in our apartment in Badia a Coltibuono.   As you enter our apartment from the abbey, there is a very large entrance area, and a very wide wooden curved stairway takes us to the upper level.  This has a huuuuuuuuge central area, with a hemispherical window overlooking the lounge area below.  Two single and one double bedrooms as well as a laaaaaaaaarge bathroom lead off this area.  Downstairs is an enormous lounge living area, a dining area which leads through to the kitchen (fully equipped).  Off the kitchen is a balcony which would comfortably accommodate about 60 people, but we don’t have 55 people we can ask around tonight to test this.  There is another balcony off from the dining area.  We overlook the landscaped stately gardens and the swimming pool area is beyond.  On our other side are the forested hills.
Lisa, I hope you are taking note of all of this …
The abbey itself dates from the 16th century.  The sitting room in the main abbey area is bliss, with the paintings around the walls done in 1574.  There is a dining room and yet another sitting room leading off that.  There are extensive cellars and their wine is great.  I can vouch for that - we had a tour this afternoon and of course we couldn't take their word for it, so we had to have a tasting.  I don’t want this entire blog to be just about our apartment because for those who are reading this in their office it may be just a tad too much first thing in the morning!  And it would be rubbing it in just a bit, wouldn’t it?
We’ve had a great day really, starting with breakfast out on our Montalcino balcony with amazing views as the morning mist cleared.  It was one of our slower breakfasts, partly because there wasn't a good time to leave the view, and partly because the thought of packing up and moving on was so "tiring".  Once on the road, we managed a couple of photographic stops for the sensuous rolling hills, a great mix of vivid greens and canola yellows.  Further along were green fields with red flowers mixed through.  The brief period of what looked like bad weather produced stunning black skies - they didn’t last long but did provide some wonderful photographic opportunities – we didn’t want to miss any of those!
We called in to Ceramiche Rampini just before arriving at our apartment.  The range of ceramics was absolutely stunning and I could have gone beserk, but suffice it to say that I did manage an admirable amount of restraint and there are a few lovely pieces on their way to Sydney courtesy of FedEx.  Mind you, we are here for a couple of days yet so I could be tempted to head back ….  with the weight bands that FedEx have in place, I still have a few kilos to “fill” so I could be easily tempted to add a few more items.  I justify it by saying its cheaper than flying back to Tuscany to buy more, but then again that’s not a bad option either.
We had a lovely home cooked meal tonight, and as I finish this off Peter is just handing out coffees from the kitchen, Leanne and Val are singing along to Val’s music on his computer and Leonie is relaxing.  We are all still amazed at how huge this apartment is – I’ve seen smaller houses!
I've now come down to the "office" in the abbey area which is the only place the internet connection is available from.  Compared to the other rooms here, this office is tiny but in reality its the size of most people's large double bedrooms, if not bigger. 
Anyway, a few snapshots from today ...


Our home for the next few nights - wow! 


You can see the window and through it to the upstairs level.  I tell you, this is one apartment that Grand Designs could have a whole show on!




The view from the small balcony near the dining area


One of the corridors in the abbey area - the chairs are new, as they are only just over 100 years old


the swimming pool area, which sadly won't be tried out (this time)




This is just part of the main sitting room area in the abbey - these paintings are the ones done in 1574 and I just wanted to show how hard it is staying in these places after spending hard days on the road photographing everything, testing gelatos, fitting in 5 course meals and a little bit of shopping



it may sound like a holiday to some of you reading this blog, but this is proof that I have been hard at work at the desk here!!!!!